On Hold Ibishu Blackfoot ('84-'96 Jeep Cherokee) 1.1

I figured it's better to learn with one piece and get to know how all of it works, rather than modelling loads of pieces that won't work properly. I'd rather go piece by piece, although I'm going to try and model some more in Blender to see where I can get.

I did think it was the triangles. I was looing at some of the JBeams from the D-series and Hopper, and the wiki also explains how triangles are set by three nodes. I did do this with one side edge of the mesh, before the hood line raises, but it didn't do much. I'm thinking that more triangles would be needed to make it rigid.

 

Stop right there, collision triangles ≠ triangles made from beams. Collision triangles, or coltris, have nothing to do with the strenght, structure or floppyness of the jbeam. They are used for collisions with other vehicles and aerodynamics, and should be the last thing to add to the jbeam. Instead, yoy should now make triangles with beams.

Not sure if I understood you correctly, but this is written just in case there was some misconception regarding triangles.

 

I'm confused then. Here's a quote from the wiki:
Triangles & quads are very similar too each other; they have the same purpose with the only difference that a triangle is set up using three nodes where a quad uses four. (the quad is introduced at a later state to make jbeaming easier) The quad is actually two triangles sharing two same nodes. They're almost always called a 'coltri' (collision triangle).

 

--- Post updated ---
I remembered why it's probably acting floppy. I didn't triangulate the polys before I exported the JBeam!
I'll try that now to see if it fixes it.
I'm also modelling part of the fasica.

Quoted from the wiki:
Although the shape looks correct, in BeamNG.drive it wouldn't support itself since it has no cross-bracing beams. To fix this, we need to go back and make sure every face is crossed by two edges to provide rigidity through triangulation. To cross a face, select two opposite corner vertices and press F to create an edge between them. Alternatively you could use the triangulate modifier under the modifiers tab.
--- Post updated ---
Well that doesn't seem to have fixed it either... on spawn, after slowing it down to 100 times slower than realtime, the mesh actually implodes from the inside out.

 

Are you, by any chance, UltimateStance from VStanced?

 

I am indeed

 

I really like that the Comanche will be planned, and from the looks of it (poll), it looks like it might happen.

 

I have simplified the JBeam to quite an extent, however part of the flexbody mesh is now invisible.

 

Oh, that's cool to know. Great job on the Starion by the way.

 

PM the jbeam to and I will deal with it.

 

Awesome man, looking forward to it.

 

The chassis has been altered and re-shaped to fit the Cherokee's chassis according to blueprints, and the rear suspension has been re-worked with Gavril leaf springs, custom hangers, Gavril axle and inboard shocks (like the Cherokee).
The Hopper doesn't have leaf springs at the rear, although it does have a solid rear axle. But it isn't set up for leaf springs, so I used the model from the H-Series (which is the same as the D-Series) for the leaves, axle, and some support brackets.
The front suspension isn't identical either, as on the Hopper the shock is separate from the spring, whereas on the Cherokee it is one single unit, like a coilover kind of thing.

 

*awesome*

 

Thanks. I'm glad you guys are looking forward to it I am too!
I am about to take some pictures of the car, chassis, engine etc for reference.

 

If you have the body mapped to a skin texture, to make it colorable is very simple. I forget which map it goes to in the materials.cs file, but for whatever zone you want controlled with the 1st color slider, make it pure red (255,0,0) in a paint program. Second slider is green, third is blue. Hope this helps!

 

Keep it an Ibishu

 

Thanks for the info

I will, don't worry. As I've said before, it fits, beause it's based on the Hopper in many ways.

I took 53 pictures. Some are blurry but most of them are useful. I might take some more later of the exterior and interior lighting, as well as the cool OEM LED brake light on the factory wing that the Orvis models came with
I also just remembered that I have both a full owner's manual, and the complete 1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee Haynes workshop manual too. Lots of decent info, images and specs in there!

 

As a die-hard Jeeper and an XJ owner myself, I'm super excited to see the progress on this mod. It already looks very good! One question I have is will you make it a unibody, like the real cherokee?

 

frame visible in the picture