http://m.ebay.com/itm/Thrustmaster-...me-Controller-for-PC-/232316938238?nav=SEARCH Should I pull the trigger? Don't know much about used products or the T2 in general, so I'm asking you guys.
You might have some driver issues. I know that my old logitech peripherals have some issues, and don't work properly. You might want to look up if people have problems with it.
I don't know about anyone else but I am actually getting really used to Edge, like the set aside tabs is incredibly useful, and the scrolling performance is far better than chrome's trainwreck, also the scrolling tabs feature is amazing!
If they don't fix the scrolling bug, I'm going to Opera or edge. It is unacceptable, as it has been known for a while, but nothing is being done. Plus, other browsers are pretty much equal in performance right now.
All of these people going on about the current Chrome build's issues are non-existent for me. Of course, it could be due to the fact that my version of Chrome is exactly 1,000,000 years old. I might go back to Canary Chrome because I hate myself. I refuse to use any other browser.
Here's what BeamNG Website looks like on Windows Phone 7.5 It'd be good if I could actually get my Microsoft account to work, since I could use the phone for Spotify.
PowerMac Update: A little under 40 minutes until the auction ends. I'm starting to root for myself, here. I really want it having checked the latest pricing trends. The G4's are starting to shoot up in value. If I pair mine with an appropriate kb/mouse and a CRT Studio Display, it's worth only god knows how much (assuming it's just the lack of ram that makes it fail POST). Half an hour now. I already have an upgrades plan for it. I hope it works. I really do.
I had a kinda rough g3 tower(blue and white) that wouldve been scrap. So i gutted it and fit a MATX board in it. Maybe do that if it doesnt work?
Well, it's on its way. Hopefully it's just the lack of ram that makes it fail POST. With my (albeit limited) experience with Macs, there's a perfectly good chance it's a fully functional unit, assuming USPS doesn't run over it with a truck or anything...
typical... absolutely typical, so my grandads DVR's hard drive stopped, and so I recommended him get a 2TB one (WD - Blue) and so he bought it, now I take the 1 TB Hitachi drive and put it in my system to see if it turns on, of course it does and runs perfectly, with only 8 re-allocated sectors, its above the warning but it isn't bad considering it was kinda free I'm going to use it as backup only drive though since I don't trust it that much. Is 8 re-allocated sectors ok? I have a drive that still works that has something like 1,500! and I'm like woah this thing is still working! It is 8 re-allocated sectors, there are no pending sectors however so I assume it is fine, since it is a drive warning message, I am going to however run HD Tune Pro on it and see if I get any bad blocks...
Mine is branded Hitachigst.com Doesn't have any like sub name on it Lets call it the Ressurect-Star! also it seems to have maybe 2 platters since it is as thick as the new 2TB drive
Pretty sure HGST is the old HITACHI as it was bought out or rebranded or something a while back, I forget, but it was something in that ballpark. HGST *IS* one of the more reliable brands, better than Western Digital as far as the BACKBLAZE drive statistics go (you can google that!), pretty sure it's better than SEAGATE too. To whom this may concern: BAD BLOCKS are not the end of the drive. A few is non-critical and not really a concern. Drives are made to handle CRC errors to a certain point within the drive itself during read operations, while mostly being transparent to the user. No drive is perfect, no drive reads 100% from a 100% quality disc 100% of the time, it just doesn't happen. If the drive detects that it can't read properly from an area, it marks the block as BAD, and data will no longer be stored there unless it's low-level-formatted or 0's written to the drive. Sometimes this is due to a formatting error, wear and tear, or just defect in the drive (which could be just a bad block on the disk itself, or sign of drive failing, sometimes due to debris from a head crash*). So what-may-seem-like-attempts-at-fear-mongering-but-isn't aside, don't worry too much unless that count is increasing at a large rate or your system is getting super slow. ALL DRIVES WILL HAVE REMAPPED BLOCKS** at some point in their life (HDD, SSD, etc), some from the beginning, some not for a while. There's tolerances built into the drive's firmware, the little program you never talk to, inside your disk, that runs the drive's hardware operation itself, looks at the table of contents on the drive (The File Allocation Table, or Journal), and uses the info there to fetch your files and sends them to the system (or in opposite, writes the files to the disk from the system). If it's just a few blocks, I wouldn't worry, but if you do reads and notice it's sluggish, and notice a few more each day (bad blocks), it's time to backup your files (if you haven't already), like a smart PC user. I always keep my stuff backed up, what's important and can't be reloaded from Steam anyways. If you can't remember the last time you backed up, it's time to back up your important data. No, I don't mean system restore, I mean, complete offline backup, like a drive you can disconnect from the PC when done in-case a virus or electrical surge occurs that won't toast all the files. And for crying out loud, shut down and remove your backups when done with them, don't leave them connected to the PC, please *Headcrashes: These are bad, this is when the spindle in a hard drive contacts the disk it's floating nanometers above, and scores the surface of the disk. Debris from this (much like a car accident), are on the path the disk travels, though they usually spin off quickly, may lay on the disk and cause further damage and worsen the condition of the disk. This can happen from a failing drive, this can happen due to earthquake, or dropping the PC (or kicking it, if you're me, which is why I don't use HDD's anymore, and also since the broken foot incident about 9 years ago, why I won't kick it anymore and have since put it on the desk where I can break my knuckles on the 80LBS tower all day). Don't hit the PC. It's just bad. SSD's won't have this issue, they have no moving parts, and it's basically just a circut board of RAM-like chips (actually, NAND) that don't lose data when the power is off. This is called Non-Volatile storage (where RAM= Volatile). **Remapped Blocks: SSD's are more known for this but hard drives have been doing this for a long time. The entire drive is not created equal, nor are all drives of the same model, nor are all drives from different manufacturers ever created equal. You could come home with a drive that gets 8 bad blocks the first time you use it, and never has a problem for 10 years, you could have a drive that's perfect and bricks solid after two years of use, you never know. When you have a drive in operation and it reads data and goes HEY this isn't adding up down here, "something's rotten in Denver/Denmark", it tries to re-read it (how long again depends on if TLER*** is on or not, it's on by default on consumer drives but not on enterprise/pro drives). If it can't seem to properly use a block (even if it eventually gets the right thing with TLER on), it marks it as BAD, and it uses a block from the SPARE AREA (over-provisioning!), re-maps the data there, and goes about it's business, usually transparent to the user unless you NEEDED the file and it couldn't read it correctly, then you get a warning and 'couldn't read file' message in the OS. My enterprise SSD's from Toshiba have spare area /over-provisioning here to the name of 32gb per 512gb drive, which is PLENTY enough to provide 880tb of endurance. That's almost a PETAbyte of endurance. That's a LOT. The PRO series (Q-Pro series to be exact, a few years old) doesn't have overprovisioning/spare area by default and has about 330TB of endurance - less than half. What's the difference here and why does it matter? Well, when a block is remapped, you lose a little bit of space available on the drive (usually a measley few KB per block), if there is no 'spare area' that is 'over provisioned'. If your drive has over-provisioning, it will go a lot longer (most of it's life in fact, or as much as 223 years at the rate I use my PC). Basically, it's like baking 20 sheets of cookies, and having a spare sheet of cookies available if you have dropped a few on the floor while serving them (Hope you have a dog). In all honesty, even doing content creation on this PC (It's all solid state, no HDD's in here, only temp drives for backup when I need them, then they're pulled), I haven't managed to put but a few % of wear on any of my solid state drives, even ones that are a few years old. They have not slowed, they have not acted odd, they just keep doing their thing, so if you're on the fence, do replace that HDD with an ample-sized MLC-based SSD (or 3d TLC-nand-based SSD). ***TLER: Desktop drives have TLER which recovers data while telling the system to wait (and why you can't RAID desktop drives, or shouldn't anyways, without disabling that first). TLER retries and retries the read process, sometimes for up to 30 seconds or more without communicating to the OS, something that wouldn't be done in an environment with data redundancy such as a server farm (where it would drop out of a RAID array if it did that, and exactly why you shouldn't RAID them). TLER = Time-limited-error-recovery. Other terms used here include RAID: Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks, this is used to pair or combine any number of 2~10 or more drives into a large, single volume, that's both fast and (usually!) has data-redundancy, though you can read much more into any of this at wikipedia. In closing, if you value your data, regardless if your drive has a big-frowny-face icon, or a happy smiley-face with sunglasses on it, BACK UP YOUR @#$^ING DATA. Don't be like Cleatus, he stored everything in his computer, family photos, his tractor, his country music collection, his dog, his cattle, even his pasture, and some other things it's against forum TOS to bring up He lost everything. Back up your data! ^I tried to keep this stuff 100% correct at all times, if you have suggestions or corrections, please do so in the following posts and I will amend this if necessary. I didn't have time to double-check EVERYTHING.
You could submit this as an essay! I need to find something else to back my data up to. I use my old Toshiba laptop to store everything. I can't trust any other computer :\
If you have a tower PC, and it's able to set HOTPLUG capability, that's what I use here, I don't even need to shut down anymore. Just plug in the drives while it's on, and POP they're in MY COMPUTER. Copy files and then when done, right click on the drive in my computer and select EJECT DRIVE, that flushes the write buffers and de-attaches any running file handles (links to opened files, locked files in use etc), and then you can disconnect it - no rebooting needed. If you have a spare working HDD laying about, you can also get a USB or ESATA (if you have E-Sata / External Sata, check your doc's) enclosure for the extra drive and put the old drive in there. Generally you'll find the HOTPLUG capability settings per-port or per-controller in the bios under integrated peripherals or 'storage configuration' on the newer UEFI bios'es. My ASUS MAXIMUS HERO VII Z97 motherboard lets me set this per-port, but your mileage may vary. This feature has been around for almost 10 years now, so most decent and midrange boards should support it, it's usually listed as 'sata hotplug support'. Just glad I don't have to restart to add or remove the drives, because it's a pain to deal with loud noisey HDD's in the middle of the night in the country here, as they're about the loudest thing in the house. Oh how far we've come in tech. If I may, I will (without prejudice per brand) select some SSD's for the limelight, if ya'all are interested in purchasing one: Transcend MLC SSD, Crucial MX300 SSD, Samsung 950/951 Pro SSD. The Crucial is the only one using TLC nand, the rest are MLC nand (MLC I swear by, but the newer 3d TLC-nand has come a long way and is more reliable than regular TLC by sheer volume fitted to the drive... e.g. over-provisioning). The Transcend won't win any races that's for sure but it's very cheap for what you get, and there isn't that noticeable speed difference unless you're running a server farm and need sheer throughput, if it's an older PC (or anything older than 2~3 years), you might as well not dump the fastest drive in it known to man. The Toshiba drives I run here aren't noted for speed but they do work with the PC's config, so when you buy a drive that works well, stick with that brand for the remainder of time you use that PC if you should pick up more drives in the future. You could also pick up a Samsung EVO drive, but I have been wary of these ever since the issues they had in 2014 with them getting slow with old data. The following applies to ANY version of Windows NT, from Windows NT4, NT5/2000, XP, Vista, 7, 8.x, and 10 (any edition). Also, I forgot to mention in my LAST ISSUE / BOOK, that if you've got a slow drive, try running an administrator command prompt (run> Command prompt, right click icon choose RUN AS ADMIN...), and typing chkdsk /f c: (replace c: with your drive letter of choice if it's not the c: drive acting up) and hit enter. It may ask you to restart, do so or type shutdown -r to have the machine auto-reboot in 60 seconds, it'll load in diagnostic/repair mode, repair the file allocation table/ parse file journaling, and reboot again READY FOR USE. Don't be alarmed at that second reboot, this is normal, to properly remount the disk volume. This fixes the bitmap that stores file allocation table data, and it has a backup in-case of power loss or drive problems etc, so if you have a mis-match due to a power failure or BSOD type crash that takes out Windows, you'll want to run that chkdsk command after you re-start the machine, to ensure your drive runs it's proper speed, not ONE THIRD of it's correct speed.
So, ordered a new router a few days ago to replace my dying Belkin AC900. It came in today. A Linksys WRT1900ACS. It is set up, running, and will soon have dd-wrt on it. The performance of it is already great, especially compared to the Belkin junk, but it could be a bit better, and I like the additional features with dd-wrt.
how. what. This computer is not turned on. It has not been turned on in at least 2 months. i have shut down my computer since then. Yet i can still access it on the network. what. the. heck. edit. also its not IN my network list (name reveal!) i only get to it by typing \\nas4free
