The way it is currently set up is with 3 Limited Slip Differentials (front, centre and rear). It now has a widebody fitted to it which has helped a little especially with stability (as in not tipping). @Blijo has helped with adjusting the camber and tyre pressure to get better results. Its still not perfect and I think the suspension (spring and damping) is currently the weak point. One issue I do have is that while I can sit and play around with standard beamSpring and beamDamp values all day I don't really know how to adjust the "beamDampFast", "beamDampRebound", "beamDampReboundFast", and "beamDampVelocitySplit" values. With there being so many values, figuring out how each effects the car is not at all easy. Without knowing exactly what effect each will have it is kinda impossible for me to find a perfect balance. Equally the suspension on rally cars gets adjusted from event to event as well, so no matter what I do the chances of it being spot on for what the player is driving on is almost nill. So not only does the suspension need to deal with rough (almost acropolis rally style) terrain, but it also needs to be able to deal with smooth French rally style tarmac. Then in testing each setup I have to figure out whether what I have done has had a positive impact or if I just drove the stage better, while also trying to factor out any placebo in whether the car feels any different to drive. All in all you are left with an insanely complex balancing act. Overall I have decided to try and balance the car for slightly rougher terrain since the player would probably select a race car for tarmac. So here is where the suspension is currently at. My current thoughts from watching the video a day after it was recorded are. Perhaps the damping is too high since the car doesn't absorb the bumps smoothly, but equally there is a point in the video where the vehicle can be seen bouncing after a bump, which would suggest damping is too low. The spring rate seems to be somewhat in the right ball park, but maybe needs to be stiffer towards the end of its travel to try and prevent it from bottoming out so often. I probably also need to adjust the suspension so that wheels can drop down further when no mass is upon them to keep ride height lowish while allowing for extra travel to absorb jumps and bumps where needed. Equally though small island is very rough, so is it reasonable to expect the car to smoothly sail over that or should it be expected to struggle with it? I don't drive WRC cars for a living and no rally simulation to date seems to have handled these sorts of issues, since the tracks are usually pretty smooth. From looking at video it seems the cars do tend to rattle around a fair amount however they seem to stay composed at all times, but how much of that is down to the driver and how much of it is down to the car. Its really difficult to tell. TLDR: Large teams of highly experienced engineers are paid vast sums of money to figure this stuff out on real rally cars. I'm a 20 year old Games Computing student with an interest in cars. So odds of me matching the real cars isn't all that high xD
More progress! me kustom anemone flowers already include two slightly different variations. Do you think they look too repetitive? Should I make more variations of this flower, or focus on making more botanic specimen?
Some general notes: 1) Make sure the nodes to the shock aborbers connect to have some decent mass, like 6-8kg ideally for race/rally levels of damping (low speed coefficients ~10000 or so), or split the damping up between lighter nodes if you have to. This will ensure you are far away from instability and gettting all the damping that you are supposed to. 2) Make sure the suspension moves freely through the travel when springs/dampers beams are commented out. Any beams fighting the travel or noses self colliding with tris stopping the hub from moving will be adding extra springiness without damping to compensate. 3) Use separate beams for the bumpstops, that way your main damping will remain consistent through all the travel even as the bumpstop gets compressed. I don't know a lot about rally dampers either, there is little to no documentation or shock dyno charts out there. I am led to believe the following: Tarmac: Slow Rebound = Slow Compression * (2 to 3) Fast = Slow / (1.5 to 2.5) Knee: 0.05 to 0.15 m/s This is a strongly digressive damper with quite a bit more rebound than compression damping. Many successive bumps will cause the suspension to compress down towards the bumpstops because of the imbalanced damping. Going off a bump, the wheels will be slow to drop so they wont allow using the full travel to absorb the landing. I don't have much real info on rally shocks, occasionally I try to find stuff, read rally forums, and experiment. So far I gather its something like this: Rally: Slow Rebound = Slow Compression * (1 to 1.5) Fast Rebound <= Slow Rebound Fast Compression > Slow Compression Knee: 0.2+ Where tarmac dampers are strongly digressive, rally dampers tend to be progressive for the compression side and linear or digressive on the rebound side. On something high end I am sure they are tuning things based not just on velocity but on position as well, so maybe the compression damping is only quite high as the suspension gets closer to full bump, and maybe it has a different knee point, like only beyond some m/s of velocity.
I finally got the wheels positioned correctly! It went from this: (exploding upon spawn) To this: The stress lines are because I haven't fiddled with optimized the engine jbeam yet.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Songthaew Thai minibus I use camper shell ,bed ,bed cover ,roll bar from a Dseries to make this thing.....
The doors and mirrors are now in place: I suppose I should start thinking about a name to re-brand it. Ferrari is Italian, so it should be a Civetta.
So, in the end I couldn't get the the suspension to work as I would have liked, so I decided to ditch my own efforts since they seemed to be going no where, it now has the same spring and damping as the etk i rally. I also tried to modify those, but only made them worse xD . So for now I am going to avoid putting a head shaped dent in my wall and defer that to a later date. In the mean time so body kit progress has been made. I may have to make a separate version of the chassis with the correct holes cut into the rear arches once everything is finished, since the wheels clip the original arches.