0.30 Discussion Thread

Ahhh...got ya. I didn't try that. I always begin a session with my engines started anyway.

 

Love this Update, but whenever I want to spawn the ETK 800 854td, it spawns with the I6 Gasoline Engine instead of the I4 Diesel....

 

It certainly would be an interesting addition to the simulation. Even though of course, one of the selling point for automatic transmissions is a certain immunity to bad driver behavior. The transmission simple wont allow you the feared moneyshift unlike a manuel that gives you that particular freedom.

Even though from - unintended! - testing I can say that trying to shift into reverse gear in my Focus at highway speeds is also at least difficult (you notice something is wrong, when trying to engage the gear, the feeling isnt right and you might hear very ugly high speed gear grinding as the gear shifting assembly tries to force in what is not supposed to be forced in. From my Scorpio which had RWD and a direct mechanical link (instead of Bowden cables) to the transmission, I can also report violent gearstick movement as the spinning gears will repell the mechanism that tries to lock them into something that should not be locked.
Dont try.... because should you succeed, chances of something expensive giving in are high.

Dual Clutch Transmissions as the name indicates use clutches as the mean of seperating and joining shafts of different speed. Being an automatic, usually computer controlled system however tends to minimize regular clutch wear as shifts are done with incredible precision so the only real factor of wear is mileage and poor operating conditions (Starting uphill with a heavy trailer). With long enough clutch slip, those clutches will overheat similar to manual clutches. Things like being wet might help distribute the thermal load as may quickly entering into 2nd gear (that uses the other, colder clutch)

Still, for regular heavy uphill pulling, you want an torque converter transmission (or electric) as this is the only transmission that doesnt care about large RPM differences between engine and driven shaft. Because unlike clutches that are supposed to enter full lock mode swiftly, an torque converter as a fluid coupling does not suffer from any wear when the output shaft keeps spinning slower than the input shaft. All (clutch job related) friction as such only happens in the fluid and that means that the actual automatic transmission (which needs internal clutches to operate) is never exposed to anything unusual, increasing lifetime reliability because there are no operator errors which could cause undue wear and tear.

Of course, transmitting torque via a fluid is not loss free and those losses will heat up the fluid. Sustained abuse will overheat the fluid even though it likely will take a while due to the much higher thermal mass (compared to clutches) and the better cooling opportunities. Still, there is a reason why many modern automatics deny you the rev the engine/flooring it when the brake is depressed to deny you that fast way to overheat the transmission. I would assume that actual shift friction inside an automatic transmissions is minor and as such of no thermal concern, similar to the friction of the engaged gears and the transmission itself.

Unlike ICEs which will simple stall below a certain speed (for example in a 4 cylinder engine, the engine will go out if the power stroke is unable to move the piston to the bottom end and thus the next piston will never reach ignition point) most electric motors have no direct relation between input power and the shaft moving. While this is very beneficial (as you dont need clutches, torque converters or even multi gear transmissions) this also bring up a thermal risk. If the applied electrical power is insufficient to spin the shaft, all that power not turned into movement will instead turn into heat. Normally operating a 100 KW electric motor (at peak power/load) will only turn arround 5 KW into heat, meaning that you only need a cooling solution for 5 KW. But if the shaft stalls and cannot be spun (due to mechanical damage or tremendous load) than the thermal stress of the engine will be 20 times the regular one which will overheat and damage the motor very quickly.

In practise, the low gearing as well as the traction limit of tires probably dont make that an serious issue. The moment the shaft begins to move, power is turned into movement at the expected rate, removing the risk of overheating. I would also assume, that similar to other modern automatic transmissions and ECUs, that the car simple wont allow you to floor the engine with the brakes applied.

 

who knew i would learn so much from a game :O

 

Fixed it! Lack of FFB was caused by SteamVR not detecting my wheel, not using steam VR fixed it (i didn't realise Oculus detected BeamNG as a game)

 

I have a problem with the data migration of the new update. I have my game files on a drive (G) but it wants to migrate the data of the new update to drive (C). I've attached pictures of the problem below.

 

The user data is stored on your C: drive (unless there's a way to change that) but the launcher copies instead of moves which is why it needs so much space. Try going to the folder (%localappdata%\BeamNG.drive\0.29), moving the mods to ..\0.30, and deleting temp/replays (they rarely work between versions anyways) and it should be small enough for the launcher to work.

 

The UV maps on the enclosed cargo trailer are misaligned in game. This was tested in safe mode with the skin I was testing being the only mod activated, using the UV map for the trailer provided in the game files.


When matching the texture for the side walls with the top of the UV line, there is a gap from there to the actual top of the side wall in game


On the side with the door, this can be fixed by extending the texture through the gap to the UV line of the roof


However on the opposite side, filling the gap between the wall and the roof pieces causes the textures in the gap to be duplicated on the roof

 

That's not really... realistic. Modern motor controllers are using something like quadrant control i.e first quadrant forward power, second forward braking, third reverse power, fourth reverse braking. However, there are three types of braking, regenerative, dynamic and plug braking. As motor speeds up, its back-EMF goes up, the higher the speed the higher the back-EMF, the higher supply voltage will be required to gain positive current, hence positive torque. To make the motor coast, either you cut the circuit or you supply the voltage exactly the same as the back-EMF to make the motor current zero. Regenerative braking is being done by giving supply voltage lower(but still positive) than back-EMF, to make the current(hence power) reverse, to send power back to the supplier(grid or battery). The slower the motor, the lower the back-EMF, the lower the required supply voltage to maintain regen. When the speed is too slow, the regen power is less than power consumption of supplying said voltage, the regen is cut and friction brake will be applied regardless of braking torque. Another way is to simply short-circuit the motor to make it brake itself, dissipating mechanical energy as heat, known as dynamic braking. This can only be done using a resistor or the motor is already very slow, in this form of braking, the supply voltage is zero. The last form of braking is plug braking, simply reverse polarity of the power supply, both the power consumption and the dissipated mechanical power are converted to heat. However, this cannot be done on a powerful motor since the heat will destroy it in seconds if not milliseconds. IRL vehicle will either forbid the driver from shifting in to R when the vehicle is still in forward motion, or cut the circuit until the vehicle is almost stopped.
When the shift lever is in D, the accelerator pedal(and the initial travel of the brake pedal if the vehicle has regen blending) controls the positive supply target voltage, the higher the pedal input, the higher the target voltage/current, the quicker the acceleration, if the pedal application is sufficiently low, the target voltage is lower than the back-EMF, to do the regenerative braking. However if you shift into R and hit the gas, the polarity of the supply voltage will be reversed, this is plug braking rather than regen.
In conclusion, even if motor damage/thermal is not simulated. The battery level should still goes down, not up.
--- Post updated ---

Not exactly. For an ICEV, the lower the speed the lower the gear, when the speed is very low, the torque converter will be in its torque multiplication range, the torque will be further amplified, this enables the vehicle to creep upwards w/ an underpowered engine(you can test it using a fully loaded T-Series using the weakest engine).
For an electric vehicle, its motor will be in constant current(hence constant torque) when the speed is low. For example if the constant current range is 0~60km/h if you slow down climbing a slop with full throttle at 59km/h, you won't be able to climb it if you start at 0km/h. Either you downshift(which is not possible on most EV), or choose a higher ratio final drive, sacrificing top speed and highway efficiency in the process.

That's how unregulated motor works, not those on EVs. In an unregulated motor, the supply voltage is constant(or directly controlled by the accelerator pedal), if the motor is running normally, the back-EMF will only be slightly lower than the supply voltage, the current is under the limit. The higher the load, the lower the RPM the lower the back-EMF, the higher the current. If the motor is stalled, the back-EMF will be zero and all power goes into heat.
EV motors are regulated, the accelerator pedal controls the current/torque when the speed is low, or the power when the speed is high. The motor controller supply the voltage according to the acc pedal position and the motor RPM. In a constant acceleration with a fixed accelerator pedal position, the supply voltage minus back-EMF is constant, as the motor speeds up, the supply voltage also goes up to maintain a constant current. If the motor gets stuck, the controller will drop the supply voltage automatically to a very low value to prevent overcurrent and the motor won't be damaged.

 

I exclusively use Arcade gearbox, and after the latest hotfix (v0.30.5) I am having trouble getting all cars into reverse. That and they all hang on to 1st gear after a complete stop and creep forward sometimes up to 6mph.

 

The new cargo trailer is one of a couple vehicles in BeamNG where the template UV doesn't match the model's skin UVs - the '96 Pessima also suffers from this problem.

Overlaying the actual UV over the template shows how misaligned it is, clearly the one in the files is an outdated version. Although, that version doesn't have any overlapping issues which the current one unfortunately has, much like the '96 Pessima whose 'old UV template' in the files looks much nicer than what it actually has on the model. I hope this does not continue to be a trend as each update adds another poorly aligned skin UV.


This is an updated version of the template that I made, by all means use that instead until BeamNG updates theirs (if ever).

 

I have terrible performance after the 0.30 update. I could spawn 12 cars earlier, any more the FPS would drop but be constant say ~40FPS. Now I get this strange lag with FPS going from 90 to 15. Not using Vulkan. My Specs:

AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 6-Core Processor
L3 cache 32 MB (16-way, 64-byte line)
AMD Radeon RX 6600 (running latest Adrenaline and drivers)
Memory type GDDR6 (Hynix)
Memory size 8176 MB
DIMM # 1
Size 16384 MBytes
XMP profile XMP-3200
Specification DDR4-3200
DIMM # 2
Size 16384 MBytes
XMP profile XMP-3200
Specification DDR4-3200

Here's 10 traffic cars + myself:



It's even worse at West Coast. I never seem to run out of anything, GPU utility occasionally at 100% but I shouldn't see this bad performance.

EDIT: SOLVED

I fixed it, after BIOS update I had huge leap in performance. ASRock bios update solved the issue going from 2.62 (2023/2/15) to 3.30 (2023/10/2): This is how West Coast with 15 traffic cars look now, pretty amazing difference:

 

@fangio86 nice. Did the BIOS update enable reBar (AMD SAM), by chance?

 

Hmm I'm a bit lost here, because I know I been running with that setting on in BIOS since the start. In my AMD Adrenaline software, it now says "Not Available". I'm not sure if BIOS has the final say, because it is enabled. It might be BIOS and graphics card to their SAM thang there within BIOS and Windows don't interpret it the way it should. But the BIOS updated definitely put something straight that maybe something in my Windows software (Adrenaline, Ryzen Master, AOC display software or who knows) altered.

Edit: Going back to the BIOS, the updated did indeed clear my old settings. At a first glance I thought they were kept, but I can confirm yes the BIOS update reset all values. I loaded them back up through the old BIOS profile, meaning running OC ram from 3200MHz to 3600MHz getting fabric clock at 1:1. I also had to enable re-Bar/SAM. Now this gained me another 10-15FPS when I went back to West Coast and loaded 15 traffic cars.

AMD Adrenaline still says SmartAccess Memory "Not Available". The BIOS update did fix this in the end.

FYI the AMD AM4 AGESA Combo V2 PI 1.2.0.B update with Inception security patch has been rumored to have a performance hit. Gamers reporting FPS drops in variety of games (might be old news but see this https://www.tomshardware.com/news/amds-inception-fix-causes-up-to-54-performance-drop). I'm yet to test other games, but it did wonders to BeamNG.drive.

 

Because every time they fix one thing they break 10 more? I'm not knocking the devs. This happens in all huge software projects. I'm a retired software engineer or whatever they're calling them these days. In my time they were just called 'computer programmers'. But I digress. It's pretty much a maxim in huge complex software systems that fixing bugs usually introduces more bugs. They need to roll back to a stable version, get their test plans in order. A 'stand down' is what we called it when we kept making the product worse by trying to make it better.

Again, not knocking the devs. In my experience it's almost always been management or marketing people asking for too much too quickly that leads to mistakes. That and losing the devs that had in depth knowledge of the complexities involved in the project.

I'm just thankful that none of the new bugs have been absolutely game breaking for me.

 

There is a background in steam that I bought with steam points, but it has a problem... it seems to have a black frame at the gluing point for some reason, I haven't seen this problem in other backgrounds, can this be fixed?

Maybe cut the frame? Or change the file format? What else could cause this flickering?

 

literally unplayable

 

Wat

 

missing space