So you got the merc a new battery and she died on you. I'd personally check the alt for 12-14 volts, then maybe the multifunction switch (blinkers) for some sort of ground problem. Then clean the switch and reinstall, this kinda happened on my Ranger but that just turned the blinker solid with lights. But sounds like a ground problem to me or sadly a alt. But if it's the alt you might have 2 good batteries just charge them both up. Or I could be wrong, that's the fun with cars.
2 checks. Get a multimeter. Stick it in the 10A range (or bigger). Remove a battery terminal, stick multimeter in gap to record current. If its reading a good half amp or more while the car is switched off, you have a short somewhere within the car. Reattach terminals, record voltage across them while the car is running, it should be 14v. Any less, you have issues with the alternator or wiring between alternator and battery
Have you had your LCM replaced? There's a recall out for it. The fucky happenings seem to go outside what the LCM controls, but still, it's worth a try. Replacing alternators is a ridiculously easy job on panthers. 5 minute thing. I suggest you do it yourself if it is the problem.
Make sure your battery light turns on when the key is turned then turns off when the engine is running. If it doesn't turn on then it could be a wiring issue. In my car the battery light stayed very dim and the Volvo forums thought it was a wiring issue. Turned out it was actually a bad alternator, but wiring is still something to check.
I have not had the LCM done yet. I got the thing in the mail from Ford last year about the free replacement to. That is an interesting idea... And yeah, lucky for me it's literally right on top of the engine. Easy as can be for an alternator. My battery light still works. It only comes on at start up and right before the dash fades out. I'm thinking alternator. It would suck if it wasn't... ___________________________________ The one thing that gets me is that the battery light doesn't show until the very last few moments of the dash staying lit. Only my check engine light has been on. It came on when I replaced the battery.
can literally get a multimeter for five bucks. That's what you want rather than a voltage tester, ability to read current is useful for detecting shorts
Hell, you can get them for free with a Harbor Freight coupon. A $5 eBay OBD adapter works just fine for reading codes.
Not "today" but two weeks ago. xD Was at my first drift event. Had some compications with some upgrades so we pushed way past the deadline so joined the event when it was one hour left. x) But did the best out of the situation so.
The Merc is fixed. Replaced the alternator before work today. It runs better than it ever has since I've owned it. Didn't realize how much power that intake was taking from it. Check Engine light is still on but it is for an EVAP thing so, no rush.
Nice to see I'm not the only one who knows you don't need a 4x4 just because you occasionally drive on an unpaved road. If I had to replace the Sunbird, I'd almost consider a similar Volvo, but the thing is, they've got kind of a subculture around them, at least here in Alaska, that I want no part of. Saw one coming home from Anchorage one day - an old wagon slammed to the ground, giant brightly-colored wheels (as far as I can remember), stupendously loud fart can, flat black paint, giant "HOONIGAN" sticker.
I think I have to add 240 to the beater list now. -Volvo 240 (Wagon preferred) - Olds Cutlass Ciera/Buick Century (again, wagon and 3.3L or 3.8L preferred) - or Miata Is Always The Answer (Manual only) A decent running Miata for under $1250 seems tough to find. Only about one or two every two weeks pops up. EDIT-240's are REALLY damn cheap up here. https://providence.craigslist.org/cto/5640082822.html https://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/5602469676.html https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/5598453984.html
Today was a good day. Until I ruined everything. Put in some leak stop to the AC system and some ester oil, ran that while I went to Napa to get some adapters, then got home, emptied the system, and then it went waaay downhill. I tried to take the hose off the drier and I did, except I somehow broke part of the hardline off. Whatever, I'll just take the hose off on the condenser side and replace it, right? Now my condenser is fucking ruined. It's gonna cost a minimum of $50 to fix this fuckup. And that's if I get lucky. Why did I have to try and replace the drier? It was a hunk of rust, but it was working.. God damn it.
Uhh.. The power steering belt comes off the AC compressor pulley if that's what you mean. Not sure why that matters, I'm fixing this shit.
Shining up, I guess you call it, the defroster shield on the F-100. It's a slow process with 150 grit sandpaper and a wire brush but I'm sure it will look great in the end.
I saw a picture of the B23 engine and the weird belt set up. I read that it was added as an after thought for the 'Murican market cause we can't live without A/C and power-steering apparently. Not sure how true it is though. What engine do you have in yours?
