I decided to do this as I'm bored. One of the problems are, is the heater. It barely works.it works just enough to keep me warm. But when I go through a car wash, all of a sudden, it's like burning lava inside the car! Like wtf? First it was barely warm, then its super warm??!?! What? The first problem was the heater core was clogged, so I got that fixed. Then this happend. My second issue is a knocking noise when starting for the first second or 2. After it fires up, it isn't there because it idles at 2000rpm when its cold. The noise sounds like metal rubbing against metal without lubrication. And the car has 202,000km onit and no trouble codes and there. It idles at 650rpm too when warmed up. And the car hasn't started for 2+days because I was sick. And when I got a oil change at Mr lube, they said my battery was weak haha. The car was sitting in - 20-30*c in a unheated garage which trust me its very cold out. The fuel filter, never changed. same for the sparkplugs they gone 118000km more haha written with tablet excuse grammar issues.
Does the knocking sound get worse with more revs? If so you may have spun a rod bearing. You need a tune up if not an overhaul.
Not really, it happens for a second or two then you don't hear it except for a loud ticking noise. After it warms up you don't hear anything. Along with that, if I floor it the engine reves up to 6000rpm fine with no problems and it sounds dam good too.
Yeah i know right? My car is a 2005 and a v6 engine. its very strange why its idling so low when warm haha. it doesnt bug me really, its happens when a car makes alot torque at low rpm itll idle low probably. Which mine makes 130torq at idle so it makes sense, with a max of 190 @4753rpm-what the dyno told me.
Yep. Here's a video with the noise before the dyno run. Knocking noise And a 0-100 video 75% throttle. The dyno run was just for fun. I did it to see the true power the car makes. And the knocking noise wasn't there and I recently looked down the spark plug holes with a bore scope camera. There was no carbon, and thee factory cross hatching is still there.
That sounds like top end for sure. What's your oil pressure look like? To test for rod issues systematically pull plug wires and fire it up, like this: first start, all plug wires on, listen, then kill it immediately. Unplug #1 and fire it up, listen, kill it. Plug #1 back in and unplug #2, repeat. Keep going until the noise goes away or you run out of cylinders to unplug. If the noise never goes away with a dead cylinder then it's not the bottom end. Obviously if it goes away (even partially) with a cylinder unplugged then you've got an issue with that particular one. You aught to double check that it has full oil and water too. Weak heater is commonly a low water issue. let it get good and warm and see if your engine temp gets really high. To see if the thermostat is working you can look for flow in the radiator while it's kinda warm. Just start it with the cap off and wait for it to visibly start to flow. Carefull getting the cap off if it's already hot btw. Toss a rag over it and go reaaal slow to avoid getting covered in boiling water. That idle speed is totally normal btw.
OK cool thanks, I'll do the spark plugs and other stuff. Will it work if I do it from the ignition coil because I would have to take the intake off as it's fwd-awd and because its a v6 engine as well. The thermostat was replaced when I got the heater flushed. The temp never raises from operating temp. Thanks for the help I'll check this asap. --- Post updated --- Edit. I can't see the oil pressure too, I may take the valve cover off to see them timing chain and oil flow too
now i remember. your the one who claims low 13 second quarter mile times. i still call BS until i see a time sheet. you beat that thing up every day it runs is a gift as far as im concerned.
No oil pressure gauge? As long as you are able to stop individual cylinders from getting spark while letting all other cylinders fire normally it will work. So if you can only get to the coilpack then so be it. If you mean that you want to unplug the primary coil on a motor with a distributor to test it, then no, that would just immobilize the car. Don't screw with any of that stuff while it's running through. You only need to be shocked by post-coil voltage once to get a healthy respect for your ignition system. I would advise against running the engine with the valve covers off by the way if you like working in a clean engine-bay lol.
Yeah I'll try these things during the weekend, running the engine would just spray oil everywhere because the engine uses presureized hydraulic lash adjusters, if i can,sense the car is idling I may block the oil passage to one head (front head) so I'm able to determine where the noise is coming from. Thanks for the help, I always use synthetic oil and when I get a oil change people say the car looks amazing underneath too like there's no rust and leaks which is awesome I'll record what I do too. Here's a photo of the engine where the coil is. .
Sounds good man. Disconnecting it there will work fine. Remember that this test is only to rule out a bottom end issue, if it's in the top end you will still have some diagnosis to do. What viscosity oil do you run? Bumping up a notch in thickness can do good things on most motors, but it will only be masking an issue (though sometimes it can help the longevity of the engine, but that's mostly with older motors.) I have a video of my engine running if you want to hear a spun bearing. The constant rattle-y ticking is on the top-end, driver's side bank, and the deeper noise that comes in between 2500-3200 rpms is the #4 rod bearing. Rod noise is much more deep and full bodied sounding compared to top end noise. The best think I could compare it to is the difference between tapping your oil pan with a wrench (bottom end noise), vs tapping your valve covers with a wrench (top end noise).
Yeah, idk what type of oil I use but I use full synthetic oil sense I had the car. I always change it every 5000km. When the engine is cold started sometimes the choke turns on and idles at 2000rpm and I don't hear a rattle. But the second I turn the key I hear a grinding noise for 1second then it runs fine except for the ticking. When driving it never happens. Thanks again for the help.
Your car has no choke. Thats simply the fast idle triggered under cold conditions. Honestly I did have a rattle like that in my corsa. It wasnt the engine, it was the horn, fell off one side of its bracket and was vibrating. Worth a quick check that everything is secure in the bay before resuming investigations into, well, worse.
Ok yeah, I got into a 5 car collision a few years ago, so the whole front end was replaced considering a new rad and front exhaust manifold. I'll see if I can get a photo of the accident off my phone. It could be anything that's making the noise, it could be the exhaust vibrating around who knows. I'm quite sure its something like a collapsed lifter or something, the engine has 200k on it so yeah. But I never thought a horn can do this. And the choke, what I thought is it's controlled electronicly, because when it first starts it shoots up to 1900rpm thennslowy goes to its normal idle 1000rpm them when it warms up it idles at 650. Thanks for the advice btw I'll do a quick check for loose stuff too
The choke is an actual mechanism in a carburettor that causes the air velocity through the carb to change and allows the carb to run a richer fuel mixture than it would normally. With fuel injection, air movement has nothing to do with the mixture you can achieve so its not needed/fitted, you can simply electronically inject more fuel than you would normally, and this is essentially what the car will do at a cold start. For me it was the horn rattling on the bracket.
Oh okay now i get it thanks, i knew how a choke worked by removing air and adding more fuel to get a hotter burn when cold. my car uses mpfi fuel injection, not if that would make a difference
It does with regards to a choke. Your fast idle is done solely with the ecu adding more fuel and in some cases adjusting the throttle butterfly. A choke is a physical thing that blocks off airflow on carb motors. You could look for exhaust rattle while your at it if you think it's not internal. Nest time you drive it listen to the engine to see if the noise is tied to RPM (in every gear, not just one) or vehicle speed. If it correlates with neither of those then it's something other than the drivetrain. Get a piece of pipe and use it like a stethoscope to find the source of the sound. If it's just exhaust or a loose panel it should be pretty obvious based on where the sound comes from.
