I not good at drifting...

Any tips or tricks on drifting in beam.ng drive, how I (attempt) to do it is by using the parking brake, manipulating my car into a drift.

 

Try it in slowmo in practice +get your config right, also don't forget drift tires.

 

Ok, so which drift car is better, missile, street, or pro?

 

I get really clean drifts by using either the I-series or the 200BX. I usually have ~12-14 pounds of boost through the stage 3 turbo. I try to make the power band as linear as possible, so I don't get crazy surges of power mid slide. You don't need the most power for a drift car in this game, as I experience high power to be more challenging to hold onto and not have it be absolutely uncontrollable. For the wheels I use grippy front race tires. For the rear I usually use standard or even sport tires for a normal size (say stock) wheels. If the rear wheels are REALLY loose, I switch to sport. If they are very close to being a suitable grip, I try to mess with the, as deflating a tire makes it more solid, while adding pressure to the tire makes it looser. Switching to a drift steering rack would also help A LOT. I also use a controller, as its easier to not use full throttle all the time, and you can manipulate the throttle while in slides.
This is my best drift car config I've made, and all I did was add Drift Steering, front race tires/wheels, Stage 3 Turbo (which I reconfigured), and the stock wheels, which I configured a little bit(tire pressure) to get the sweet spot of grip.

 

Don't use slowmo. You need to feel the changes in the weight of the car.

First question, do you have a wheel, or at least controller? I will assume you do at least have a controller:

For me the simplest way is starting with a slow, stock car first and not trying to get giant drifts, just getting the tail out and controlling it. Perfect starter car is the 200BX LS Type. NA engine so it is really easy to control with the throttle (turbo cars have turbo lag which ends up leading to snap oversteer, which is really hard to control). Don't touch anything.

Some drifting techniques from easy to hard (in my opinion, also every thechnique has its strengths and weaknesses):

First technique is handbrake drifting. To throw the car into a drift, just turn into the corner a bit and tap the handbrake. Countersteer and accelerate THE LEAST you can so you can keep the car in a stable drift. Throttle control is much more important than correct steering, if you don't accelerate enough the car will grip mid drift, if you accelerate too much you will spin out, the amount of countersteer will just modify your maximum angle. You can even make a drift with zero countersteering if you throw the car into the corner with the correct intertia. Practice this until you can keep the car in a drift easily. You don't even need a road for this, you can use an open space so it's less frustrating.

Second technique is powersliding. Just mash the throttle after the apex of the corner and the car will oversteer. Control it with countersteering and throttle control.

Lift-off oversteer: At any corner, while going fast enough, you can induce oversteer by lifting the throttle. Press it again and countersteer to control it.

Another one; clutch kick drifting. This one works wonders with low power cars. At pretty much any point of the corner, even before it for extra kudos (but harder to get oversteer), if you press the clutch, accelerate to rev up for a moment and release the clutch while turning, the rear tires will lose traction, sending the car into a drift. Control it like always. You just need a tap of the clutch, don't hit the rev limiter for two seconds.

Last technique is inertia drifting (cue "NANI?!?! KANSEI DORIFUTO??! scene"). Mastering inertia is the most fun way of drifting in my opinion. Just flick the car to the opposite side of the corner, turn into the corner, and countersteer (so, if there's a right turn, there's three directions you need to turn: turn right to build up inertia, left to get the car to turn into the corner, and then left again to countersteer). At the point of weight changing sides is when you can make the most adjustments: you can clutch kick, or lift off for extra countersteer at that point.

I might make a little video showcasing these techniques.

But it all comes to: start slow and simple, and then you can get the extreme turbo cars and steering angles. You'll have the most fun this way and you will always be in control and know what you can do at any point of a drift.

 

I'd like to add onto this fantastic post. These are some cars which I think could work really well for the OP:

-Miramar GTZ: 95 horsepower, 130 pound-feet of torque, an LSD, quick-ratio steering, light weight, small size, and a 4-speed manual mean that this car will be quite easy to drift.

-T65 Fifth Wheel/Ram Plow: The smallest T-Series, in my experience, is a fantastic inertia-drift vehicle, and the Ram Plow is even better for drifting with its higher power and lockable diff.

-Grand Marshal Drift Missile: Powerful, with no turbo lag; rear-wheel-drive, welded rear diff, lots of steering, and a lighter weight than the typical Marshal make this the perfect noob drift car.

-Barstow Roadsport/Awful/Lancehead: These three Barstows all have limited-slip or welded rear diffs, 4-speed manuals, a decent amount of power, quick-ratio steering, and are relatively lightweight (especially in the case of the Awful and Roadsport). I'd recommend starting with the Awful first, as this one has got the least power, allowing you to develop your technique before moving up to the more powerful versions.

-Moonhawk Terrible/Sport/Special: These three Moonhawk versions all have limited-slip or welded rear diffs, 4-speed manuals, a decent amount of power, quick-ratio steering, and are quite strong. The Terrible would be the best one to start off with, of these three, as it's the lightest, the least-powerful, and the most controllable.

-Hopper ZXT-6/Sport Special: This car, in its top-line sport versions, also is quite good for drifting. When switched into 2WD mode, the ZXT-6/Sport Special become amazing power-on drift vehicles that can be controlled very well, as they have limited-slip diffs, a decent amount of power, a short wheelbase, and 5-speed manuals.

-D15/Roamer Sport: 333 supercharged horsepower, all-wheel-drive, sport suspension, rear limited-slip diffs, and lots of torque make these two trucks perfect for powersliding around corners.

 

Great choices. I might work on a little video comparing some cars and the decision making it takes to drive each one, which should be more insightful than mindlessly describing each technique.

I'm trying to get some clean runs though, while I'm good at theory the handling in this game is very demanding (which I love).

Oh, also, good job talking about differentials, they are one of the most important parts of all this.

 

Surprisingly for a keyboard player the moonhawk v8 special is really easy to drift in.

 

By the way, something that some people might not now: while it's easy to make a car driftable by making it not have a lot of grip with drift parts, you can also make a really fast drift car by using race parts all around and playing with the suspension settings to make it more twitchy: negative camber and toe (don't overdo it, -5 to -15% is all you need; higher in the rear wheels), softer suspension and slightly higher ride height to make better use of weight transfer. It won't be a show drifter but as a touge racer it will be very fast.

 

Just take the Grand Marshall and give it a stage 3 supercharger with an automatic. I use a wheel so I feel like a really easy car to start out drifting is the Grand Marshall. It's got plenty of power, and you have lots of steering angle. Very floaty too.

Using drift steering for a wheel makes the steering inputs way too sensitive for me. Controllers and keyboards are fine for drift steering.

 

Also, the three most important upgrades anyone can do to their drift car on a budget (in my opinion) are...

-Limited-slip/welded differentials
-Quick-ratio steering (if you're using a steering
-Manual gearboxes, preferably with at least 4 speeds to play with, although for lower-revving/lower-powered engines (like the Moonhawk/Barstow L6s, the Burnside's 313-cubic-inch V8, the Covet's carbureted SOHC L4, the LeGran's 2.2-liter L4, and the Miramar's SOHC L4s), which primarily make more torque than horsepower, 4 speeds should be plenty for drifting applications.

That is not to say that automatics aren't bad for drifting, as shown here...

Interesting. I use a keyboard, so I find quick-ratio steering (but not quick-ratio drift steering) to be easier for me.

 

The Barstow 423 V8 model(if you want something with a sportier feel and more power then go with the roadsport version) is what I'd recommend, you can get the rear end out in pretty much any corner and the handling is pretty forgiving.

 

I'd recommend a base model ETK Kc4t with the deletion of the ESC and the ABS options. It feels just alright.

 

High power FWD cars are good for handbrake turns, just keep at a normal speed (the handbrake doesn't turn you into Initial D's Takumi ) and when you are finished with the slide mash the throttle and it will even out, but long corners can't be handbraked as you loose too much speed.
As for RWD go for the Campervan mod, the H45 with a massive upfit, Stage 3 supercharger and RWD locked diff, you will not be disappointed

 

I can drift really well inside of the Hillclimb SBR4

I don't know if that's just me but when i use a normal drift car, i always hit that wall because i'm so use to the Hillclimb.

 

it really depends on the user and your expirience

 

My preferred setup is the ETK 3000i with the drift steering, race suspension all around, race swaybar in the front, stock swaybar in the rear, 195 wide sport tires out back and whatever I feel like on the front (usually NOT race tires, some 205 or 225 sports are just fine, helps the car from being too twitchy). I use the adjustable diff and lock it completely to simulate a welded diff.

The I-series is pretty well balanced, the engine has enough power and the powerband is linear, which helps a lot. The longer wheelbase makes it more stable as well.

 

Well, i use a Ibishu Sunburst DCT without ESP for a handbrake turn and i can control the drift pretty easely

 

Usually, i just use a stock Moonhawk V8, i just add a limited slip, quick ratio steering and that's pretty much it.