General computer talk/advice

Wait did u just say it's coming to steam before tomorrow?

 

Yep it pops there in about 13 hours. In meanwhile try the demo

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Hmm i looked those cases but eh, Phanteks evolv grabbed my attention. But had to take atx board so define r5 it was and MAN that awesome case.

 

Already $25 now IIRC. Steam release who knows.

 

This is just frustrating bought this screen 3 days ago and im not pleased to it. Yeah the 4k is awesome but dear lord this doesn't work right.

In first pic theres that white bar that flickers when im in win 8.1 settings. Pic 2 has massive screen tear when moving browser across the screen and last pic theres a little bar just under ati and spotify that flickers.
Then there is stupid artifacts on screen, havent got picture from it but it takes right or left side of screen and just like it glitches the picture and it takes either right or left side and stops just in the middle of screen.
And lastly there are some popping noises from the screen every time it pops the screen just slightly blinks black. Might be the plastic work around the screen expanding or capacitors popping.

I cant just return it back to the shop because i didn't buy it online, i have rma it and im gathering few evidences here and there before i go get the rma paper at the shop.

Or could it be more of driver problems ? I hear that AOC uses non standard timings and AMD cards do not like it. Im afraid that the shop just says thats the problem.

The screen is AOC U2868PQU and i paid 429 euros for it. I know its "cheap 4k" monitor but lord i expect it to work right.

 

I got a Latitude E4310. Power light goes on for a few seconds and then shuts off. Wifi light and caps lock light always on on when plugged in. I took it apart and did a bit of looking, found nothing other than a bit of dust in a plug which I cleaned out. Now the same lights stay on, except instead of turning off the power light just turns back on again and keeps going like that.

 

Isn't that because it is two panels stitched together? If it is that is a common problem, but I don't remember the fix.

 

Moogs wrist drilling must have been damn painful.

 

It sounds like it's shorting somewhere. Did you see any evidence of liquid anywhere, like PCB discoloration?

 

It's actually damn clean. I mean, like a tiny bit of dust if anything. It had a skin thing on the back which means even that is nice and clean, apart from a chip in the corner. Came with a cheapo China battery which looks scuffed up but is pretty much new in terms of battery life. (2% wear according to HWMonitor.) I tried baking the board as a last ditch attempt but that didn't change anything so I just ordered a new one.

Now I have to sell my E4300s... (They're basically the same, the E4310 just has some design changes, a bigger heatsink, Core i5/i7, better screen, etc.) I'm hoping to make at least $160 off of both combined.

 

Finally! I finished my first build with good results i get bios screen and since i have the msi click bios 4 i can check my hardware and sure enough everything is there, all i need now is the optical drive and OS which i seriously don't wanna spend 170bucks on ;(

**Edit** Finishing touch http://imgur.com/aYkF8b0

 

Installed the Radeon 6790 that I baked earlier. No artifacts but the second fan is obviously shot and it's idling 130f. Stress testing time I guess.

EDIT: Opened Furmark and heard the fan screeching. It hit 190f after like 3 seconds. Time to check the heatsink if it's mounted right.

 

Don't stress test it on a single fan. Remove the broken fan and zip tie a 120mm case fan in its place.

 

Why not replace both fans if you are to replace one.

 

If you have two fans, sure, why not. But at least replace the bad one.

 

I mean, it works, it's just on it's way out. Besides, it shouldn't be running up to 220f in less than 5 seconds anyway. I took the heatsink off and the thermal paste coverage is just fine. Maybe this china paste is reeeeallly shitty..

It's kind of like when I ran my 650ti without knowing the heatsink was barely touching the die. At idle clock speed it was fine, but as soon as it upclocked it was overheating really badly.

 

I have the Prodigy M. A close friend had the Prodigy.

Prodigy M and regular Prodigy are same dimensions. Share most pieces too actually. M has different bottom and rear panels to the chassis, a motherboard tray on left side (yes left, not right as is conventional) and hard disk plate thing on the right (removable) whereas the regular variant has the weird motherboard tray atop PSU setup and conventional drive bays in the front (absent in micro ATX version, space occupied by PSU instead, weird setup).

]For intel CPU + single GPU setups, there is nothing wrong with Mini ITX motherboards for gaming. They take the standard 1150 CPU's and can attempt to take coolers (gotta watch the clearance on RAM and GPU though), dual channel DDR3 (or DDR4 on the single x99 2011-3 socket board out there) and have plenty of SATA ports. Really most peoples gaming rigs are just fine on them. Its only SLI or Crossfire you can't do, also there are no AM3+ Mini ITX boards in production so its really Intel or AMD APU only in that market.

While airflow for a tower cooler is excellent in a regular prodigy, for a stock or low profile cooler blowing air downwards onto the chip the airflow is counter productive. Mates 4670k throttled 24/7, lagged on anything CPU demanding, D15 caused issues in BeamNG tech demo, stuck a 212 evo in there, down to 40c full load. He had a front intake fan and rear exhaust, the tower then stands perfectly in the front/rear airflow. For the stock cooler, its at an angle to the main airflow and its in an area with a small volume, and worst of all its blowing downwards, warm air rises. I still would have expected it to work, but we were seeing otherwise. Ultimately he switched a a 240mm watercooling radiator in the top mount (slim 240's can be mounted on the prodigy M with clearance for a GPU still, plus the M gains bottom intakes for an alternate radiator mount) and water cooled the CPU. Think he used a combo reservoir and pump mounted where one of the drive bays should go. Originally he tried the various all in ones, they suck, after multiple warranty replacements he switched to the custom loop.One of them split and had a load of dirty water and swarf come out.

The left side panel on the ITX variant is vented. This lines up with the intake fans on a GPU, no cooling issues were experienced by mate in that. The inverted motherboard arrangement in the M causes GPUs to reside near the top of the case rather than bottom as is convention, also causes the intake to draw air from above rather than below the card, conveniently lines up with top intake on the M.


I understand the ITX variant has a fairly restrictive max length limit for PSUs. The M mounts its PSU in a bizarre location and can run a decent length.



I use the M. I like my M, it is very odd for a micro ATX case though.
I'd take some photos of my setup, but I canny find me camera and you saw what my phone produces...
But the 120mm top fan happens to blow over the front edge of the graphics card, 120mm fan on my 212 evo then snaps that up and blasts it rearwards to where the exhaust *should* be but isnt because I didnt mount one. CPU at full load doesnt exceed 45c, GPU maxed at 42c in my GTA session today. Plenty cool.
However the M variant mounts its drives oddly. It has a sheet metal panel on one side of the case. Can mount 3 2.5" drives to one side and 2 3.5" drives to the other, they screw flat onto the panel rather than going into bays as is conventional, but the 3.5" drives are on rubber grommets. But the 3.5" drives obstruct the CPU cooler. There is then a pair of 3.5" drive mounts (same style, just screwed into rubber grommets flat) on the bottom of the case, bottom of the case is alternately a dual 120mm mount or a 230mm mount, in my case its dual 3.5". My windows install is buggered with the boot manager on an 80gb drive and my actual C partition on the 750gb drive so without some fannying about I cant simply ditch the 80gb drive. Eventually I'll get a blank windows install on an SSD and reformat the 750gb drive too. Also 2 2.5" mounts on the inside of the side panel.


All very weird layout in either case. But I do like both of them.

 

Took the heatsink and fan shroud apart. Washed out all the dust. (Yes, washed. I don't have any compressed air on hand.) Hopefully that does something, but I doubt it. I seriously can't tell if it's a heat transfer issue or something is seriously broken..

 

So, i just realized just how many macs i have. alot. i have a bunch of other stuff too lol
i own an apple //c, apple //gs, Macintosh Plus, Macintosh SE, Macintosh Classic II, powermac g3 desktop, G4 cube, Powermac G5, 2010 macbook pro, macintosh performa 6115 cd, macintosh lciii, Powerbook 520c, 2 Imac g3, Imac g4, Powermac G3 minitower, Macintosh Classic, Apple IIe, powermac 7200/120, Powermacintosh G3 server

 

May upgrade soon, the stuff not shown on this list I already have.

(imported from here)

 

That's a very nice build, but there are better options IMO.

You could go Z97 with an i7-4790K, and get a GTX 980, for the same money.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bBtHZL

Or even a Radeon 295x2, for a bit more...
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vzdtyc