Improvements: Without a radiator, there shouldn't be any coolant in the engine, and thus no smoke should be produced. The only smoke that should come out in this case is from the exhaust due to oil burning when the piston rings are gone. Unless there is still coolant inside the engine from sources other than the radiator, the smoke should still disappear. The engine should in reality just seize without producing smoke. I don't know what the game means when it says "Coolant overheating," because there shouldn't be any coolant in the engine. I know that after a certain temperature, the coolant overheats in the engine thermal app, but if you don't have coolant, I don't know what temperature the game is reading for the coolant to overheat. (Copied from my post below) Radiator smoke continues to smoke indefinitely after all the coolant is gone from the radiator. The smoke from the radiator is the coolant evaporating from the leaking radiator, but it never stops smoking. When the engine thermal update came out in 0.5.3, the smoke used to disappear after all the coolant was gone. WhyBeAre's video for reference: When the piston rings are damaged, blue smoke comes out of the engine or exhaust, which is the oil being burnt. The same thing happens with oil starvation when the car is upside down. The problem is, after all the oil has escaped from the engine, the blue smoke still comes out of the engine indefinitely as long as the engine is still alive. The smoke should no longer come out after all the oil is gone. Head gasket smoke seems to be more realistic, although smoke from the engine bay has the same issue. Radiators are way too strong in front end impacts, and in general for some vehicles. There are a ton of vehicles where, you can hit a solid wall at highway speeds, sometimes even over 100mph, and it's still working. This is not even exaggerating and I don't even have to explain how this is pretty unrealistic. Radiators are quite fragile in real life and all it could take is a small impact for coolant to start leaking. (The Landsdale and '96 Pessima have the most realistic strength radiators for reference and I would still consider them a bit strong.) I don't expect to go back to the 0.5.3 radiator strengths, but there use to be a time where there was a decent balance. Another thing with the D-series and Roamer is that you can completely remove the whole radiator support with the node grabber, and the radiator still works. Maybe simulate the radiator hoses breaking and add a message when they break. Oil pans are way too fragile on some vehicles and lose oil way too quickly. Yes, oil pans are fragile in real life, but in Beam, different materials, small cracks or dents, and scratches are not simulated, so they have to simplify it. I'm not an expert on how it's implemented, but any impact that hits the oil pan node breaks it, and it could be the smallest scrape. The problem is that for such small oil pan breaks is that the oil escapes way too quickly, and in real life, small amounts of oil should dribble out for small oil pan breaks, not all the oil is gone immediately after any tiny impact. On the other hand, some vehicles seem to have near indestructible oil pans one cars like the Sunburst and FCV. Engines heat up too slowly, especially when the car is just sitting there idling. In reality, the car should fully warm up in a couple minutes, depending on the type of engine, fuel type, etc. I know that in a colder environment, engines take a lot longer to start and heat up to operating temperature, but they still take too long. Even if you drive a vehicle hard for a minute or two, it still won't fully heat up. With forced induction, the engine will warm up faster than a NA engine, but for regular production vehicles, it is still too slow. Oil pan is spelt incorrectly in the damage messages (literally unplayable). It's spelt "Oilpan" in the game, but the correct spelling is "Oil pan". Suggestions: When the oil pan breaks, oil gets dumped out visually on the ground and also makes the ground slippery. Same when the coolant is leaking from the radiator, it's visually represented. Smoke from the engine or radiator should only come out of an opening in the hood or the gaps between the hood and fenders or grill, not straight through the hood like in real life. I can understand if this is too difficult to implement, though. For air-cooled vehicles, the gauge on the tachometer app should display the oil icon instead of the coolant icon, because it measures oil temperature instead of the coolant temperature.
Hi SpaceGood, As for the radiator smoke, I think with all the different cars it will be hard to implement. but if we make the hood a hitbox and the smoke as well it should not be able to go through the hood. But again this will most likely not just be a easy think to implement. I also think that engines should not just lock up. But instead have a bearing knock first,
Yeah if they somehow implement hit boxes on body panels like the hood and fenders so smoke does not go through, but I think it would be way more complicated to do. Also engines do get rod knock when the connecting rod bearings are damaged, but can be a bit quiet at times.
Yes I bumped my own thread. I recently watched FailRace's video on racing without radiators, and I noticed a few inconsistencies that don't seem realistic. While I'm not an expert in this, some things don't make sense. FailRace's video: 1. I mentioned this in my initial post, but without a radiator, there shouldn't be any coolant in the engine, and thus no smoke should be produced. The only smoke that should come out in this case is from the exhaust due to oil burning when the piston rings are gone. Unless there is coolant inside the engine from sources other than the radiator, the smoke should still disappear when the engine is burning coolant. The engine should in reality just seize without producing smoke. I don't know what the game means when it says "Coolant overheating," because there shouldn't be any coolant in the engine. I know that after a certain temperature, the coolant overheats in the engine thermal app, but if you don't have coolant, I don't know what temperature the game is reading for the coolant to overheat. When you don't have a radiator, the way the cars overheated made more sense when the engine thermal simulation came out. Going back to WhyBeAre's video in the first post, there was no smoke coming out of the Grand Marshal when he removed the radiator, and the coolant temperature didn't move because there was no coolant inside the engine. 2. The temperature gauge on the tachometer shouldn't move if there is no coolant. I know the gauge is reading the coolant temperature, but it doesn't make sense for it to move if there is no coolant. On a related note, for air-cooled vehicles, the gauge on the tachometer app should display the oil icon instead of the coolant icon, because it measures oil temperature instead of the coolant temperature. 3. The temperature gauge inside the cars should also be fixed when there is no coolant. I know that in most modern cars, you would have a low coolant warning, etc. But the temperature gauge should not increase because the computer or sensor in the car requires coolant to display properly. So you would have no reading on the interior gauge as well. Also, I'll eventually update the first post with all of this as well and feel free to leave any suggestions or corrections.
I'd like to add two things to that list. 1. A damaged headgasket should not smoke when the engine is off and cold. Also in most cases of a damaged headgasket, the oil and coolant mix together, so the oil should slowly disappear from the oil pan, but it doesnt do that in the game. 2. Most engines that seized from overheating can start again once they have cooled down. They may run rough and slow and need a long time to start up, but they run. I'd love to see that implemented in the game.
Oil pan can also be referred as the oil sump, but they are basically the same thing. There is a difference between dry sump systems and wet sump systems, but I don't think it's simulated officially unless the race oil pan does what a dry oil sump should be.
