Hi all, Im new here and I hope I can help you to make greating that game. First o all, I wanna say 1 thing: Im spanish so my english is not good as yours, but I think we would understand with less issues. Ok, here I go: 1º are not realistic ibishu cars because, either of them, do 900 grades steering rotation, when we know that rally cars only do 270 grades. Then, I think that when we will choose "rally covet" would have only 3/4 steering rotation not 2 and 1/2 spins. 2º In Covet cars, rear side has not much handling...and they are FWD!! But, although I put every rear part in "sports mode", I cant see any difference. That thing is not possible because as far as I know, all sport tyres have much handling than custom tyres. 3º Steering is so weak. Im a mechanic. Is not a lie. And...in 8 years working in workshops, I have seen busted tyres for sewers without top at 50 or 60km/h. But steering is safe, with no damage. In that game, a 20km/h you crash with a rock and you destroy the tyre, steering, coils, transmission...xD 4º Cars with turbocharger needs a boost clock in dashboard. 5º Also, is not very realistic that Pickup (i cant remember the name ) use front transfer transmission (maybe for climbing, for example) and has much power in rear train than in front train. When you use a transfer, you have same power in every train. I think thats all. Thank you. P.D: Un saludo a los hispanohablantes que esten por esta pagina!
One word: Alpha, Accept things are not finished and could change, Please just wait till i dunno beta.
Ok, I know it is an alpha version but I only wanna say small issues to change in final version. Even this is a good game
1. True 2. Really? I notice a huge difference with sport compared to stock. With stock, a hard turn leads to the opposing rear wheel lifting off. With sport this doesn't happen. 3. True. I would like stronger tie rods. 4. Yes, and it also needs a visible turbocharger unit on the exhaust. But other things are more important right now 5. Not necessarily. Some AWD cars have 60/40 power distribution. I haven't looked into the D-15's transfer case setup but it might be what I'm describing.
1) yeah, well, ok. 2) Sorry, I don't understand your english. 3) Definitely 4) Not all turbocharged cars have boost gauges, most don't actually, especially when its a factory option. I think the bigger problem is lack of a turbocharger on the mesh. 5) Not true at all. Until a few weeks ago, we had a mitisbushi shogun outside, In order it had: rear wheel drive, 4 wheel drive open centre differential, 4 wheel drive locked centre, 4 wheel drive locked centre low range. Entirely possible for an open centre differential on a 4 wheel drive vehicle which then means you do not have the same power at each wheel. BeamNG as far as I can tell seems to simulate an open centre differential but I'd like to see actual clarification from the devs on that and a way of actually specifying centre differentials and torque splits.
It is easy. I was talking about the few realistic driving in Ibishu covet because this car is Front Wheel Drive and it has 0,0 rear handling. Although had nothing weight in rear train, cant drift like a RWD. Is not realistic. Not Diesel engines but turbocharged petrol engines have boost gauges. Because is the only way to see how much is boosting, In Diesel engines is not necessary because they dont have wing intake. Ok, but in the game you cant choose between 4H, 4L and 4FL. You have 4 wheel drive with transfer so in that case you have the same power in front train and back train, because you have a mechanic central dif, not automatic like fergusson join. I only say that If pickup has transfer, is not normal than rear train have this power. Is not realistic.
Nope. Still can't understand what you mean for handling. Been in a ton of petrol turbo cars without boost gauge. You don't even need to know how much you are boosting on a daily driver car.
I think they are trying to say that the rear end of the covet slides out too easily (by calling it rear handling). Using the example that the covet drifts like a rear wheel drive car as an example. Although i would have to say that you are slightly over exaggerating the drifting issue with the covet if that is the case. While it does loose traction in the rear too easily, on the base model it is not too bad, although its still not great.
You can drift a FWD car, specially if you've added power to the engine and it's on low-grip street tyres. As for the steering being too weak, you can change that easily in the jbeam file. And the steering lock is defined in the steering column Jbeam. Since the Covet uses a single steering column, it's 900 degrees. You could make a rally steering with lock set to 270 degrees. @6677: The D-15 doesn't have a centre diff, it uses 4WD which means it has a transfer case. Torque distribution should be a plain 50/50, not sure if it actually is.
The heck kind of bumps are you going over, never had steering break on a bumpy road :/ the op was talking about when crashing the car at those speeds it breaks the steering Sent from the 3rd galaxy via the talks of tapping
Some pretty good ideas in here. Also adding to the turbo/boost gauge thing my buddy just got a 2015 Fiesta ST and as far as I'm aware there is no boost gauge in there. Nippy little car though.
Hi there, welcome! I'm not 100% sure, but I think the "Rally Covet" is not meant to be a real WRC car. It's more like a home-built rallycar built out of the ordinary street-car You're right, the rear of the Covet drifts way too much, way too easily. There is some bug with the drivetrain on front wheel drive cars, where the differential locks in a weird way, creating understeer with no gas, and creating oversteer(drifting) with the gas on. Also the allignment and suspension geometry is a bit weird on the Covet, so that could be part of the problem too. I noticed this too. Usually tierods(steering) bend rather than break I think. However, I think it differs per car. When I was in a garage today there were some really thin tierods laying somewhere. I am sure those would bend more than they would break, but the tierods on my car are much thicker. I can imagine those would break rather than bend. If you say so Never driven petrol cars with a turbo before, so I don't know if all petrol turbo cars have boost gauges. You're right that it should have the same power front and rear, but currently it is impossible(as far as I know) to send more power to the front or the rear wheels, so the rear does not have more power than the front at the moment. However, the rear of the pickup doesnt handle as well as it should, it drifts too easily, which makes it *look* like it has more power sent to the rear wheels. So you are correct in that regard.
People usually add gauges when installing aftermarket turbos, stock turbo cars dont really need them because the manufacturers already did all the tuning and theres no point in the driver seeing boost except for the cool factor. Thats how I see it. The 4wd systems dont have any specifications, they make the cars 4wd and dont need to split torque in any specific way really.
I've been in and driven quite a few turboed gasoline (petrol) cars with no boost gauges... And yet, with diesel I've seen often that there is a boost gauge in newer vehicles. Old petrol cars though, nope, never seen a boost gauge. Definitely an aftermarket thing/performance model. On newer cars, like 2005+ I'm sure you'll see it much more common on base models.
Got a 201-something rav 4 and a 2010 BMW 320d with the M sport package. Both are turbo diesels. Neither has a boost gauge.
Hi, I agree most of the points in the initial post. Just for this one, I 'd like to add some precisions. I don't think (no in fact I'm sure) the problem comes from any differetial or drive train but from tyres. With a FWD, it is phisically impossible to drift while having an acceleration >= 0 and a stearing angle stable or increasing. If you want to make it "drift" you must either stop the gaz to create a weight transfer (means you were already at the tires grip limit) or get your wheels back straight in a very short time to change the heading direction of trains and create the drift. Here again, you must be close to tires grip limit. Anyway, drifting FWD cars in beamnd.drive result from a tire issue.
