Note on turning circles, rough estimates: 1927-33 Auriga Heron, wheel base 3.5 m (138"), curb-to-curb turning diameter 15 m (49.21 ft) 1932-36 CH Classic, wheel base 2.8 m (110"), turning diameter 17 m (55.77 ft) (with quick ratio steering, with normal steering that explodes at spawn, about 0.5 m more) Hard to say which one is more period correct, but I feel that the Classic could be a bit more agile. Especially with the quick ratio box. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/304965-cars-of-the-30s-turning-radius/ Anyway, great work!
Nice model but not handle the road. More over, unfortunately FFB is too strong so almost impossible to reasonable driving. It seems like strong center spring is on somewhere. In that aspect Auriga Heron is far more capable car (and has more pretty suitable engine sounds (except idle one)).
I wanted t compare my setup to this guy, took me a minute to find the banana thing as i have my steam library on an ext drive, please keep in mind im on a laptop, but it does have a gpu. Normally i average around 20-30fps, the 8x8 tanks that but my game still runs well even with 10 ai traffic cars, and i dont have any issue with the ch classic, so i use the normal body over the lowend pc body
I just made a freewheel mode for the manual transmission, freewheel explanation here @CrashHard I can send you the code if you like
So as Jay Leno describes it, freewheeling sounds like putting the stick in neutral-- or at least the equiv. behavior of the engine is as such. Or am I missing something here?
from my knowledge on freewheeling and the Toyota Crown's, freewheeling means there is absolutely no engine braking, hence why the Toyota Crown was scary when it was equipped because the brakes were abysmal at best
A bigger update is on the way. Awaiting approval - Made The Suspension parts, engine block and fueltank Colorable (uses the 2 other color pickers) - Made the standard and sport radiators less effective (should overheat if used with the dobble tuned carbutator) - Fixed the fuel level not changing when using the tuning menu to lower it. - Fixed the normal steering exploding - Made the turning circle a bit smaller (I hope) - Made the door and hood locks a bit weaker - Made all the variants that use my custom wheels have automatic gearboxes. (the manuel gearboxes just overheat the clutch, I don`t know why) - Fixed many of the error messages in the consol, (Not all) Huge thanks to Agent_Y. - Tried to make the car a bit more stable in insane collisions (Not 100% there yet)
@CrashHard , I'll take another look at your wheels when I find some time but I just think the combination of huge engine torque (dobble tuned) and low tire resistance (vintage wheels) makes the clutch go loony due to constant high revving. I'm not sure but almost. Anyway, the clutch section added below seems to solve most of it. There is still a high temperature warning popping up fairly quick though so I get it if that's not representable. But the clutch stays efficient with these parameters during and after 'burnouts'. I tried to raise the high temperature warning limit, which should be possible, but I suspect there's a glitch in the code which prevents that. I'll give it another look and maybe present the problem in 0.20.2 discussion thread or bugs thread. Code: "clutch": { "uiName":"Clutch", "lockTorque":"1600", "clutchSpecificHeat":"800", "clutchMaxSafeTemp":"350", "clutchWarningTemp":"300", }, --- Post updated --- Correct, the system actually works with a clutch wheel that sits in the differential. Freewheel is the same what happens when you stop paddling(?) bicycle pedals. I tried to put a clutch between the driveshaft and diff first to simulate the actual system but that requires too much time for me atm to achieve so my system is based on the car's clutch itself. The result is pretty similar though. Other advantages of the freewheel are (were) better fuel economy and shifting without clutching. Yes, the freewheel is (was) a brake eater and dangerous in the mountains due to 'over-elaborate use'. --- Post updated --- I found it ! It's clutch mass ! Code: "clutchMass":"20", // something between 15 and 20 I guess, default is 10
One issue I also noticed is that with some smaller wheels, like 14x7 (or similiar) they begin to spazz out & break themselves
Yes, I had to lower the weight of the car globaly, so it effect all the wheels as well. frustrating. Edit: I have decided to lower the weight of the car so it is closer to the real weight for this kind of car. And I removed the global settings so all the wheels will be stable again. Before I started it was almost 3000kg, hoping to get it down to 1600kg (cabriolet) 1800 - 2000kg (sedan) This will be a long and frustrating task. I have to lower 100s if weight setting for all the parts of the car, then try to find the right spring, damper and deform value so the car stops shaking and exploding apart.
The CrashHard Classic´s Engine breaks (Locks up) every time I turn it off. Pls fix this issue, its an awesome mod.
I just tested, I could not reproduce the bug you are having, maybe I fixed it for the update that is awaiting approval.
Another small issue... The car lacks a flywheel. Could the clutch overheating (which I don't experience) be attributed to that? Also a small misspelling
Doesn't seem to work without my latest additional clutch settings, I tried the H-series' flywheel. My latest settings (below) hold out pretty well, considering the massive amount of torque the engine puts on the drive train and vintage wheels, I mean in real life which clutch would go better after butchering it like below ? Alright, final solution : raise the clutchMass up to 35 and the system is bullet proof : I wouldn't use this as a standard setup though cause as I stated above the circumstances are asking for clutch suffering. You can always provide a mega super duty flywheel called 'Kenworth' or something !
