rear axle sheared a bearing carrier so i had to loot another completely different bearing and remove the rear gearing with a lamp pole
Well, I almost went for a drive in my new car but I had an issue with the ignition due to a flat battery. Maybe using the electrics without the engine running could have caused it.
I just traded again. My 2017 Ford Mustang for a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0 Turbo diesel. The truck I traded for has 130k miles, but a new engine in it. The Mustang started having a steering lock fault and the steering wouldn't unlock when you start the car ($2,800 to fix)... I've always liked big bad diesels better than cars anyway.
I've had 2 of these 6.0 trucks now, first one was a '03 and needed headgaskets... This one seems to be good and has a new engine.
My car failed inspection, so today I got the necessary repairs done (full replacement of rear brakes). Going to have another about $400 worth of suspension repairs done soon too Something apparently damaged part of the front suspension.
Had the ball joints replaced on my F-250 last week. Helped the steering get a lot tighter. Still didn't fix the non-self centering steering problem.
Another impulse buy :^) Fibreglass crap so it'll need a heap of encouragement to fit nicely when I get around to installing it, big surprise. It's one of the nicer ducktails out there though so I can't really complain!
Not today, but over the last couple of weeks I've made some improvements to my F-250. New wheels, 2" lift kit all the way around and added some chrome.
sold my nova , bought a honda, hit the honda (its wider then a nova who would have guessed, can see on the door and rear quarter where I got it haha) lowerd the honda, broke it fixed it, new wheels
Replaced the left outer tie rod end. Steering still shakes badly above 60 MPH so I guess that wasn't the problem, also doubt it's a separating tire since it's been remarkably consistent across two wildly different sets of tires, one old and torn up, the other somewhat old but almost perfect-looking. So the problem is either the inner tie rod end (please no), something to do with the brakes, or ???...
Wheel bearings, CV joints, diff mount, bent rim (really common and can be hard to eyeball or actually measure). Swap the front and back rims, see if it still happens. It's an escort iirc, diff mount can probably be ruled out too
US Escort, same as Australian Ford Laser. Built on the bones of a Mazda Protege/Familia, but with a 1.9L CVH and matching drivetrain modified to fit. Shouldn't be a bent rim 'cause I changed the wheels with the tires, but I'll try anyway. Even 14" steel wheels can be expensive to buy (wheel covers still fit fine if that's any indication), but wheel bearings and CV joints are what I was afraid of because either one 1. could maybe cause a wheel to come adrift if it finally goes and 2. has the potential to turn into a rust-fueled multi-day garbagefest even if the parts aren't necessarily expensive.
O-ring? More like NO-ring... After replacing it, the high pressure connection to the compressor started leaking, so I replaced that ring as well. I also flushed my power steering system today, steering feels a bit better, but the pump still makes a racket and pressure is uneven sometimes. Probably need to check on the pump itself next...
Recently purchased a 2019 silverado. Did a 2" level yesterday and took off the air dam. I mainly wanted to fit my old wheels of my old truck, but the new truck comes with quad piston calipers so they dont clear . I did buy a 8mm spacer so that should clear if I did my measurements correctly. Factory look Test fitting my old wheels How it looks today (2" level & removed air dam)
Nice. I think that thing would look pretty badass with those wheels on it. Taken it off road yet? How's the Z71 package mange?
Havent taken it offroad yet, truck still only has like 200km on it. Once I fit the wheels on it ill venture offroad.
