So: I want to upgrade to 16 GB of RAM; not a problem right. Before, I had two 4GB RAM sticks in bank B. Now, I have 4, 4GB RAM sticks, all the same exact model and everything else that matters. Here's what's weird: All 4 sticks work but only in Bank 2. Diagram: <===================> A1 - Not working <===================> A2 - Not working <===================> B1 - Works <===================> B2 - Works Now I've tested all the sticks in bank 2 and they've worked in any combination (IE 1 old one and 1 new one, two old ones, two new ones, one stick only etc.) I guess I should say I noticed I couldn't get my A banks to work when I built the PC. I was getting random 4 beep errors and was really stressed out because everything was put in right. This morning, I loosened the heat sink then took it off fully and resat the CPU. The problem wasn't fixed. It's very hard to tell if a pin or two was out of line or something. Any thoughts or suggestions? Could I potentially get a warranty replacement? OK, @BlueScreen you can now destroy me
ASRock's Fatal1ty UEFI, it's up to date. My board is the ASRock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer When putting any RAM in the A banks, I get 4 beeps and no boot/POST/no video. The PC will shut off after 60 seconds and turn back on. This cycle never changes. I did purchase a warranty when I bought it so I may dip into that if there's no other solution.
yea i had that problem but its so simple, just flip them the other way... if that doesn't work, return them>...
Huh? DDR3 only can be inserted one way. The split on the contacts isn't in the middle, they wouldn't even seat fully; even partially.
That won't cause this problem. It will mess with dual-channel, but not the ability for the RAM to work in the motherboard. And especially when it's quite obvious that the motherboard is the problem.
Did, took CMOS battery out (and dropped it into the power supply [got it out]) and put it back in two days ago They are all identical sticks. I never messed with their settings so they should default to their defaults. Sent an email inquiring about the warranty
That has nothing to do with RAM. DDR1/2/3 size/fit is independent of processor manufacturing. I think maybe DDR2 has the split exactly in the middle but I can't remember. --- Post updated --- Edit: yes, DDR1 and 2 potentially could be put in the wrong way, DDR3 can't
I've tried it with both DDR and DDR2 RAM. Neither can be put in the wrong way. It's an earlier type of RAM (pre-DDR) that you guys are thinking of.
If both slots of ONE bank are out, that's a contact error from the CPU to the motherboard, generally, or a bad trace in the motherboard between the socket and the bank. Z97 chipsets have two sets of independant memory traces, from the CPU to the ram. Bank A and Bank B. They're split electrically when they get to the ram slots. This is because, logically, it reads each BANK of memory as one chip (as far as the cpu is concerned, though the board can discern it with sysinfo tools). This simplifies board design and scales better this way, leaves more push-pull room for the board-manufacturer to design in 1 or 2 slots per bank as per the form-factor. Sounds like you cranked your cpu cooler on too tight the first time you mounted it, or got a dodgey board socket. Look for bent pins with a magnifying glass, also, check the bottom of the cpu. Look up a pinout schematic for the cpu socket, note the orientation on it (as it doesn't always give you the schematic right side up). Find the pins that go to bank A and check that the pin is correct. You obviously won't be able to see this when the board is mounted vertically in the case (unless it's really bad). Attached is a PDF, this is the Intel-sourced datasheet (linked). I didn't mind fetching this as I've got the same CPU (4790k) on an Asus Maximus VII Hero board. You'll want to go to chapter 8 (mid 90s in page numbers). Here you'll see a processor socket diagram, and about 3 pages or so after, you'll see a table with some (a bunch) marked DDR3. These are the pins you'll want to check! You must do so in good light, with a magnifying glass. Set the board on your kitchen table, if it helps. Put the cat out of the room, if you've got one. Cats = static. EDIT: Provided link to data sheet as my internet connect sucks too bad to upload even 14% of 772kb. http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/3rd-gen-core-desktop-vol-1-datasheet.html There's the link. It might melt your brain a bit looking at it but take the data in slowly, and it won't melt your brain. Go get a jeweler's screwdriver to adjust these, they're super fragile, but if you break one off, on bank A, and bank A doesn't work anywho, chances are it won't matter because nothing's plugged in there anyways. You can test-boot the board with a power supply hooked up by shorting the green ground wire on the PSU plug using a paperclip to any black wire (I usually use the one right next to the green wire). These wires are on the 20/24 pin ATX plug that plugs to the mobo. If you have an on-board power button, it makes it that much easier. You only need to short the wire of a split second to turn it on. Repeat to turn it off. Also works with the board's front-panel connector if your power pins are clearly marked. Almost garuntee it's something between the socket and cpu. You could have a bad chip, too, but it's unlikely.
I had this problem a while back, turned out it was my cooler mounts grounding out the motherboard, especially if you have a hyper 212evo. Also people who barely know anything trying to help others, I get your good intentions but you're just going to do more damage than good. The only ram that was ever able to be put in backwards was EDO memory and that's Pentium MMX era, with ATX came SD ram that had two notches to ensure you couldn't insert the memory backwards.