Derby mod from a derby driver. What am I even doing I'm really new to this, but I plan on doing it right, and accurate to a real derby car. So far I've played with editing the body, tilting the frame and raising the suspension Currently Working On Learning the basics of Blender and jbeam Modifying the body - I've removed some unnecessary parts of the body, such as the parts of the fender in front of the tires, the light in the back window, the grill, and folding the hood over the core support Tilting the frame - I lowered the front frame. It held true to the Panther platform that it is based off of, the front of the frame was angled up as I thought, so I angled it down Stiffened and raised the suspension Current Issues To Fix Raising and stiffening the suspension made the car take shots to the front tires poorly. The ride is also pretty stiff. Main To-Do-List Bumpers - Loaded and welded, front and back. Maybe an option for a pointy bumper on the front. Notched frame - Single notch on the trunk frame, this helps the trunk roll nicely. Headers - A derby car isn't a derby car without headers. Tilted - Panther platform frames are angled up in the front. To make the cars much stronger, we do what is called tilting, pitching, coldbending... take your pick. This is bending the front of the frame down slightly, usually at the crossmember, so it's even with the ground. Cage - a 4 point cage consisting of door bars, a dash bar, and a bar behind the seat Kickers - bars running from the dash bar to the frame. Halo - the roll bar in the back door area behind the B pillar Dished trunk - This is what we call the technique where we "U" the trunk lid Welded doors Front and rear window bars Hump plates - plating the hump where the rear axle goes in Gas tank protector - with the gas tank relocated to the inside of the car, you can put a cage around it, one side connected to the 4-point cage, the other side touching the back of the car. One advantage of this is protection for the gas tank... the REAL reason for it is it slows down bending in front of the humps in the same way kickers work. Roof sign - cause derby car Suspension mods Creasing the body Rolling the doors Some reference pictures Credits to Gabe for Grand Marshal
Yea, I was thinking about doing that along the way. If all goes well I'd like to do versions of the other cars as well. I'd love to make some quality compact derby models Thanks, but I think for now I want to try to do this myself. If anyone wants to help me understand coding a bit better though, you're welcome to message me, because I'm lost. I want to make my own, but wow that looks really good! That bumper is amazing, and those headers look just like a set I just ordered this week for my 318, minus the collector flair. - - - Updated - - -
Nice Frallet. Excited to see this car match up against the moonhawk derby mod by ARB. I didn't think you'd actually do this! Been waiting a while for it! Thanks for showing us the progress so far. Looks good
Sorry for my ignorance on the subject but I'm figuring this will be released, and for a lack of a better term, "pre-bashed"? The concept certainly makes sense. The dents and deformed sheet metal looks good!
I knew you'd be excited for it My main computer is being sent in for hardware issues and my backup computer can't run most of the games I've been playing on steam lately, so I've found some extra time to actually get the ball rolling on this. Yea, a "fresh build" as we would call it. We would call a car that has been ran before a "pre-ran" If you're referring to the quarter panels in those last pictures I posted, I showed some "creasing" on the quarter panels. All that is, is we use a ball peen hammer to pound in and define lines in the body. You can see that in the reference pictures in the first post. In reality, that makes the metal tighter, and those raised lines add a rigid shape to the body. For the game, it really doesn't make a difference. I was just testing how it would pack in with the quarters set up like that and with the dished trunk, but of course it will be different once I add a bumper that ties the frame rails together. I don't know if I'll add creasing to the final one or not. Perhaps an option for creased or uncreased body.
You know, that's pretty typical of the Vic steering. It's generally pretty weak on the bubble vics, and I mean every component of it. Depends on whether the rules you build it for allow swapping of tie rods and ball joints and stuff or not.
[SUP]I'm back from a vacation and have a week before I start building a real derby car back home! I'll try to get some progress done this week. I've been thinking of ideas, and I think in the end, I'd love to have enough options that you can essentially build the car how you want, so if you load a few into the game, they don't all look the same. You would be able to choose whether or not to have window bars, a pitched roof, whether you want the hood to fold over the core support, different style headers, etc.[/SUP]
Some 4 square turnouts would be sick! And that's a great idea... This way you could decide to run pro-mod/stockish/ uhh whatever rules you want really lol
Hmm, the tucked version is decent, but you ought to bend the rear quarters in and flatten them where it's been tucked at
I'm back to hopefully make some progress on this soon! My derby season has come to an end, so I'm not spending all day in a garage anymore and should have some more free time
I'm still going hard. Got 2nd yesterday, but had a plug break early in the heat so I struggled to keep it running. Ran like dog shit unforunately. Then my throttle cable pulled through the hole and my hand throttle fell off my dash bar and I was strapped in so I had to pull the cable up to my hand with my foot. by that time I was wedged into another car and pretty much got stuck.
I was more sore after I ran my fresh car at pine city than I ever have been playing rugby or football. Believe that lol. But I also got picked on pretty hard by a few vets
